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’tis the season for … fruitcakes

Another strange and constrained year draws to a close. Another slice of fruitcake. And another dive into the history of dried fruits in Australia. In connection with a project I’ll be doing in the...

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Eating in solidarity

Our screens are awash with footage of Ukrainians made suddenly  homeless, and we’re mourning this senseless disruption and destruction of human life. I’m in awe of the Ukrainians’ resilience and...

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Lessons in eating for migrants

Been thinking a lot about inauthentic cuisine, those so called traditional dishes that are actually more recent inventions—like the ploughman’s lunch. In fact I’ve been thinking a lot about...

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Still Life With Cheese

Clara Peeters, Still Life With Cheeses, Artichokes and Cherries, 1625. Very happy that my essay Still Life With Cheese is published in the latest edition (Series 3, Number 5) of HEAT. In our digital...

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Gingerbread—why are they always men?

In a church hall transformed for the weekend into a café we ate open sandwiches on dark rye bread and shared wedges of princess cake. I’ve recently returned from a month in London and Edinburgh. A...

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The basic cheese sandwich

I was going to do a riff on parsley and why it’s a bit crap at the moment. Should probably start growing it myself in pots on my balcony, but until then I have to buy it, and the continental parsley...

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Katherine Mansfield’s tomato soup

Tomato soup took me to Katherine Mansfield’s Bliss. The story chronicles a day in the life of Bertha Young as she prepares for, and hosts, a dinner party. Among the invited guests is Berth’s new...

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Beefs, gripes, quibbles

Nothing meaty here, simply a bit of a lament and couple of questions or quibbles—which sound like a grain, as in a bowl of rice and quibble or how about a tomato, feta and quibble salad? My first...

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MacArthur Park (and other cakes in songs)

Given this is a cakey time of year perhaps not so surprising then that I woke up the other morning humming MacArthur Park. A song I haven’t heard for ages and one I always (mis)understood to be a...

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Dill and discoveries

I’m deep into dill at the moment—both cooking- and writing-wise, so this is a short post. Prof. Dr. Otto Wilhelm Thomé, Flora von Deutschland, Österreich und der Schweiz 1885. I’m interested in...

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